Trad climbing sling lengths reddit. 8 cams (Bd . You can get away with using your quickdraws, but you'll have a much better time if you buy 6-8 single length slings to make alpine draws (routes in NC wander a lot). ( a sling with 2 carabiners) Most trad climbers will carry about 3 or 4 of these. Got almost $100 off, that’s like 1 1/4 free cams. I bought a handful of these to temporarily replace some sus cam slings. If you're an experienced climber and want to contribute to the community, these threads are a great Backpack or sling bag? I've been climbing with backpacks over the years and not had much problem while leading but recently my bag was a big issue. Cams and tri cams work well in pockets. I would have used threes, but didnt have any static rope with me this time. Alpines, slings, stoppers, etc I got piece by piece as I saw deals. I use a 240 centimeter sling for trad anchors and it works for many different types of anchors as well as being lighter than the same amount of cord. The 5th loop holds all of my nonsense gear that I carry for non climbing/emergencies. Draws made from slings and biners (aka alpine draws) are nice for trad climbing when you're climbing multiple pitches below your We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. There is a climb I’m wanting to project, and the top is accessible by foot to set up a top rope. Do you use skinny dyneema/dynatec slings for this (8 to 10 mm)? They can be a pita to untie after loading, but a thicker nylon sling might be messy to tie in a quickdraw basket. I think the best advice I ever heard is focus 100 percent on the placements when your placing, then 100 percent on the climbing. Im in the process of buying my own equipment for trad climbing so I need like 10 quickdraws, which sums up to be quite expensive. What should my next quickdraw purchases be? Individuals with different lengths of webbing? Hello. Sep 25, 2020 · Depending on your setup you may only need one 120 sling. Rated to 32kn so even when girth hitched to the thumb loop they’re still super good enough. Rope goes through each bit of gear and is clove-hitched back to an HMS on the figure of eight rope loop at the harness (not belay loop). Generally, quickdraws are cheaper than two separate biners (if you can even get them, seperate non-locking Dyneema hardly absorbs water, so it's great for winter climbing extendable runners, draws, everything. Rope is dynamic but a factor two on a short length is still going to be uncomfortable. There's a lot more to manage in trad climbing than in sport climbing so being able to take all the time in the world to get that good piece in is great. I have a question about different carabiner types (wiregate, regular snap gates and the linked snap gate on the rope end of a sport quickdraw). Although these may make you look a bit nerdy, or as a beginner, this length is ideal for trad climbing. Hope to get some answers. As others have said. You can easily store this system on your harness. Favorite sling is the Mammut Contact 8mm as its stitching is snag free. Hey Guys, I am working on building my first trad rack. I recently got a Tusk Superdry 9. Probably overkill especially if you're carrying a cordalette and won't need slings at the anchor. Grigri, ATC, prusik, triple or quad length sling or a cordalette, bail gear, etc. I however started with exactly the cams you have (or maybe first with hexes I don’t remember) and a single rack of nuts. What about your rack? They are often referred to as `Alpine draws', and I know of only one pre-made version (but there may be more): this one. UK trad climber here - hardly ever see bolted belays here so all natural. It would eat up the slings and make them less I knew I wanted to start trad climbing this past season, so I bought 1 C4 cam a month every month starting around this time last year. Three bits of gear (ideally threads/slings or nuts in separate cracks) with screwgates attached. Thanks in advance for your advice and opinions. More if the route wanders. You probably want to use a double-length sling and a quickdraw, or two shoulder-lengths, at least. All in all the draw weighs in at 60 grams. If you want a full set of light trad/alpine sling- and quickdraws for cheap I warmly recommend looking for sales of rack packs of light biners (CAMP NANO, Edelrid 19G etc), 60cm dyneema slings and 17cm Petzl Ange S/L or BD OZ Depends on what you're doing. The rubber retainer on the rope-side biner keeps the biner from rotating. I used to use all trad draws when I climbed at the Gunks. Equalization is a myth - especially dynamic 17 votes, 34 comments. 4-3 so little grey to big blue (dmm 0-5 maybe). Besides buying some 7mm Cordelette, can you suggest what slings, runners etc I should also pick up? Thanks as always! Primary Climbing Area: Northeast USA, The Gunks Current Lead Range: up to 5. 3M subscribers in the climbing community. Climbing slings are strongly-sewn loops of nylon or dyneema tape. In this article, we aim to help you narrow down your choices. Additionally, I have seen some say that prusiks should be 5-6' in length and other say you should always have at least one prusik that is 10-11' in length. Short draws won’t be much use, long (what Americans call “alpine draws” made with a 60cm sling) will be, as will the sizes in the middle which will get the most use. Feb 5, 2024 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. A dogbone keeps the biners from spinning around. Alpines are very flexible though, use them as normal draws, extenders and remember they are a sling so good for using as a sling, threads or building your anchor. Metolius # of Cams: 8 Length of service: few weeks Recommend? Definitely Tricams (I love them lightweight and bomber) DMM Wallnuts, DMM Offsets, DMM Peenuts (Love them all! Didin't try the peenuts yet new addition!) 3 to . I normally don't comment on anchor threads because every every gym climber on Reddit who got a copy of Long's "Climbing Anchors" is an expert. Dmm dragon 2s. Just curious. (You’ll also hear slings called runners, which is short for “running belay,” meaning any protection point between stationary belay stances. Sometimes I add 2 extra draws or 2 double length slings depending on the route. Slings are static so a factor two is going to be disastrous. Is it a good idea to buy carabiners only, and make the "sling" out of rope and applying a proper knot? I would of course use proper rope. I'd get some 30cm open slings instead, good draw for in between alpines and 18cm dogbone draws. How strong are they? Been trad climbing with some buddies for a while now and ready to commit and buy my own rack. 6 is a good start if you supplement with sport draws for long pitches. Really depends on the scenario. Draws made from slings and biners (aka alpine draws) are nice for trad climbing when you're climbing multiple pitches below your Standard UK rack for trad is a set of cams (DMM Dragon 0-6 or equivalent) a set of wires (DMM Wallnuts 1-11 or equivalent) and maybe 8-12 quickdraws. When I’m cragging, I will carry about 4-6 quickdraws and 6-8 alpine draws to extend placements. Mammut contact sling is my personal favorite. The totems add confidence in small cracks and pockets. Cams have a snapgate each; nuts live five to a krab; slings get a screwgate each, and are stored twisted up so they don't get tangled. Think places like lone peak cirque, city of rocks, big and little cottonwood canyons, and some local quartzite and limestone crags. Standing around for 10min trying to untie a frozen, weighted dyneema sling is bad style. The different manufacturers will have published specifications for their equipment. Is there a particular reason to encircle the dogbone of the original quickdraw with the sling or girth hitching on its side would still be OK? Moved PermanentlyThe document has moved here. The retailer I buy off is only offering either 8mm or 11mm in width. For trad climbing many places consider a “standard rack” something like cams bd sizes 0. Keeps the front 4 loops clear for cams/nuts and slings while I climb. My favorite sling for multipitch trad anchors is the rope I am climbing on. What type of climbing will you be doing? For me, I go with a pre-built 120cm sling quad anchor for anything bolted, 120cm sling for building trad anchors, and a 20’ cordalette for anywhere I need to extend an anchor. Very overwhelmed on where to start. Disadvantages: more potential for a tangly mess. ) I have cordelette, slings, and of course plenty Mar 3, 2025 · Building a quad requires either a cordelette at least 14 feet in length (6mm nylon minimum or 5. Previous to having this harness, I just squeezed all this stuff behind all the alpines, but it was a pain. 8mm x 60m Non-Dry Rope Webbing 4 x 18cm nylon sling - Runners 2 x 17cm dogbone-style quickdraw sling - Recommended by Climbit 2 x 25cm dogbone-style For context of the climbing I'm doing, I live in northern utah and climb mostly easy multipitch trad (up to 5. How strong are they? Depends on what you're doing. When I’m alpine climbing, I will bring 0-2 quickdraws and the rest alpine draws, including some double lengths. Should you buy nylon or dyneema climbing slings? Dyneema slings are lighter, nylon climbing slings are more durable. My double lengths go around my shoulder and clip into itself. " Recommended gear What do y’all recommend for a beginner trad rack? How much of what kind of gear should one buy? Thank you in advance. Check out some double length dynema slings to make a mini quad if anchor hangers aren’t too far apart. A 600mm extend-able draw is all you need. I like having a bunch of shoulder length slings with me, and some double shoulder length slings in case I need to sling a chockstone/horn, or need to deviate from my original route to reach pro. The WCs are basically C4s with extendable slings, but only go up to fist size. Mar 13, 2024 · The Tools Quickdraws, single-length slings (sometimes called full-length), double-length slings, and carabiners are essential parts of any trad climber’s standard kit. I mainly want to make sure they last awhile. Also what length dogbone should I be considering? Edit:Purchased a full rack of Petzl Axis Express draws. Keep slack out of your static anchors. In this thread you can ask any trad climbing related question that you may have. And yes we are scared of falling. Here’s how to tie it: Unfurl your sling or cordelette into one giant loop and double it into a smaller, two-stranded loop. I was hoping to get some opinions. Adjust length such that all strands are tight - pretty much always out of reach hence I am not doing much trad climbing, mostly sport, and the quad will be used to set up top rope anchors. On the back loops I keep 6-8 alpine draws (single length) and then 2-3 double lengths over my shoulder with a biner clipped on them. Do you carry multiple quad length slings for those sorts of scenarios? Or use double length slings in tandem? We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. Also, try to rack gear on your harness as you are cleaning in the same way that you would rack it when you are leading. When cleaning shoulder/double-shoulder length slings, always sling them the same way (over the same shoulder) in order to make the transition smoother without a clusterfuck of slings to sort out. Make sure to properly tighten your slipknots. 4 small lockers So $800 added onto your sport gear of draws, belay device, harness, shoes, chalkbag. Oh, and I hope that you are aware the internet is not the place to look for that information. Your gear is stronger than most rock you put it in. They're available in a range of lengths – your typical trad rack will have 60cm, 120cm and maybe a 240cm length sling on it, but bigger and smaller ones are also available. When I trad climb, I'll usually carry a few of my standard sport draws with 10cm slings, and well as 4 or 5 extendable draws, made with tripled 60cm slings What size slings and how many each do you like having set aside for trad anchors? Or do you prefer cordelette? And why. You’ll also probably hear different opinions (including some along the lines of “the companies just want Aug 18, 2019 · Choosing the right climbing sling can be a difficult process. Going to multi pitch course this year. Carrying the right length of webbing for emergency bails and rappels during multi-pitch trad climbing is important for your safety and flexibility in dealing with unexpected situations. Usually bring 8-10 alpine shoulder length draws, 3 double length slings with carabiners over the shoulder ( for extension, anchor building, slinging shit, and rap tether), and often like 4 regular lightweight sport draws. I recently got all my cams re-slung and wanted to write a review of the process as I had never done it before and had a lot of questions. A lot less material and weighs nothing. Get some cord to make trad anchors with, as your pieces may be spread out at the anchor. We were all new to climbing at some point, so be respectful of It seems like it would be difficult to sling together pieces that aren’t that close together. 1. Standard UK rack for trad is a set of cams (DMM Dragon 0-6 or equivalent) a set of wires (DMM Wallnuts 1-11 or equivalent) and maybe 8-12 quickdraws. On here sits all the extra stuff. Bear in mind we don’t have any bolts on trad at all in the UK so you 305 votes, 96 comments. Then I bought a set of friends (sizes . 5mm tech cord), a quadruple-length sling (240cm), or two 120cm slings. For sport climbing (especially routes at your limit), quickdraws are the way to go. 30 meters seems like a lot of material for an anchor considering most ropes for climbing are 60-70m. You can get trad draws in various lengths, nice 25cm long ones are better than alpine draws unless you want to extend. Been reading FOTH and John Long to figure out what I need to get. I’ve never understood why everyone seems to place a cam then clips the draw to the cam sling rather than just preload say a bunch of double length slings with one biner to the racking biner and essentially lightening the rack and making it easier/more efficient to clip and continue climbing. Consider the following factors: Certainly like the new c4 sling style with tucked tags, wild country slings will be replaced soon since they’re a pita to rerack for the second. I personally dont like using sport draws for trad climbing so I carry 10 regular shoulder length slings and 2 double length slings on longer stuff, all racked with 2 carabiners on my harness. There are lots of wandering routes there. Hey all, Looking at purchasing slings to make my own alpine/extendable draws. Feedback much appreciated: Rope 9. it depends Hi all, I’m fairly new to trad climbing and particularly inexperienced when building anchors. Dyneema slings are also easier to break when there isn't anything that can stretch in the system (eg an anchor of just dyneema slings). Have c4/friends . Hey dudes, I was about to buy some new double shoulder length runners (48 in/ 120 cm), but realized I had some accessory cord (6mm monster cord from… Middle Rear (5th loop): Bought my Petzl Aquila specifically for this loop for trad climbing. We will walk you through the differences between fiber choices, strength ratings, lengths, and modes of carry, suggesting different products for different desires along the way. Now, I climb in the west and prefer 6 long draws and 6 over the shoulder slings with a single biner each. How about racking nuts pre-strung on alpine draws? It would avoid the hassle of setting up a draw for every placement, the fumbling around with and possibly dropping the leftover group of nuts, and would make re-racking a lot simpler. I find myself extending many more placement on alpine climbs. What would be the best way to utilize these trees for an anchor? (Configurations, knots, etc. Apr 3, 2025 · Buying used climbing gear? Here are the red flags to look for and tips for ensuring the gear you buy is safe. How many slings with a single biner do y’all carry vs alpine draws? I’m tempted to cut down to 6 alpines to save a few oz on biners, as I don’t foresee placing more than 6 nuts per pitch, but I’m kind of nervous about not having enough. 6 Experience: climbing for 5y, trad leading for one year ~35 pitches led total since my first lead last June. This review includes 12 of the best and most popular choices available today, which can be used for extending protection to reduce rope drag, building and equalizing anchors, and even as threads or slung Slings are pretty cheap as far as gear goes, so why buy not a couple of lengths and go experiment? Start with a 60 and 120 nylon from really any reputable brand, and maybe a sewn 240 for anchor building. This thread will be posted again every Sunday so there should always be an opportunity to ask your question and have it answered. 9). Edit: There is also the Mammut Moses Express If you're making your own, it might be an idea to buy a few of your favourite `normal' draws, and replace the dogbones. Stuff like prusiks, gloves, belay plate and a nanotrax+tiblock for rescue. If you're an experienced climber and want to contribute to the community, these threads are a great opportunity for that. If possible, take newbies up routes with bolted anchors for the safety aspect. 8mm and just ordered a Black Diamond Positron Quickpack (12cm slings). 8-12 is a good starting point. 4-3 plus z4 0-3 and c4 4. The capability to construct secure anchors becomes crucial as the likelihood of falls increases, pick a good belay spot. You can also grab the dogbone. and over the years have also seen many sport climbers bring a couple 60cm (and even longer sometimes??) alpine draws for their projects (difficult clips, minimising rope drag 6 slings, 6 alpines, 2 draws, and 2 double length slings = 16 extensions in a single pitch. Harness isn't bulky but holds a lot of gear and is padded enough to be comfortable on multi pitch. IMO fancy carabiners dont really matter much for trad climbing and especially sling draws. After a couple years trad climbing, here's what I would do if I had the money to build a new rack from scratch. Alpine: These are 60cm 6mm or 8mm Dyneema slings that are formed up to make an ‘alpine draw’, allowing you the maximum extension on protection, as well as using them on spikes, belays, threads, pegs and critical pieces. This is basically a "totally fine or retarded?" question. There are no bolts for anchors, but there are two trees. Thank you all for feed back! Cant believe how much there is to improve. I've been leading indoors for a few months and I'm super pumped about doing some sport outdoors. Totems: smallest 4 sizes. Luckily slings are a relatively cheap part of your climbing kit and you can always add more as time goes on. As for length, 18ft/5. Sep 1, 2023 · Need to purchase the best climbing slings and runners for your trad climbing adventures? Our expert advice will help, as we've purchased and tested over 30 different slings in the past decade. When I give up on winter climbing for the season, I'll move the summer gear to the main sling and the ice-screws to the off-season sling. 3-4 equivalent)/ $10 nut tool Mtnoutlet. Caried doubled over (300mm) then extended when required. I have done top rope, lead and trad climbing courses. If that is not an option for whatever reason then I use whatever slings I have available on my harness. As… Sep 25, 2020 · Depending on your setup you may only need one 120 sling. If you are trad climbing you will probably need four to six 60s, a few 120s and even a 240 or 480. The home of Climbing on reddit. Reply [deleted] • If you're strictly sport climbing, local ethics dictate that you can't simply lower, and you don't already own slings (as you would if you trad climbed), sure a dedicated PAS is nicer to use to set up rappel than just chaining quickdraws. I used three different companies to re-sling: Metolius for Metolius cams, Black Diamond for Black Diamond cams, and Mountain Tools for miscellaneous cams (aliens, dmm, omega-pacific). Has anyone tried using a sling-style bag? Any additional thoughts/suggestions? Steep and cheap. This is my shopping cart with my reasoning beside it. Took me about three months of trad climbing to fall on my gear. The benefits of a clean nose carabiner really make a difference on bolts. Adjama Is my go to as well. A nut tool to remove stuck gear Five to ten shoulder slings for extending pieces (24 inch/60cm length is most common) Two or three double shoulder length slings, useful for building anchors on bolts (48 inch/120cm) A few free non-locking carabiners for extending pieces and other things One or two large locking carabiners for the anchor masterpoint I tend to use slings or cord when leading in blocks and use the rope when swinging leads. See full list on rei. 4-6 lockers, with at least two being dedicated solely for top roping and one being dedicated for your belay device. / $30 wild country rocks 1-8/ $53 dmm offsets/ $464. Taking it slow, learning a lot. There are so many different choices, and in many cases, very few differences between products. I currently have all dyneema slings and am planning on buying a few nylon slings for clipping the first piece, building anchors, etc. Cinch down the knot portion (bottom/left end in my video) and take up all the slack by pulling on the Generally recommended to replace soft goods (nylon/dyneema cord, slings, etc. com $50 10 shoulder length slings $20 2 double length slings Gear express $150 30 nonlockers $26. 1 Friends and Zero Friends (Bomber and love using them, extendabpe sling ftw) 6 extendable quick draws, 4 fixed length ( the green works fine, the red are too short). If you like doing long, easy routes, when the chances of being in extremis are remote, then having all sling/alpine draws might be appropriate. I usually rack my nuts at the front of my front gear loops and cams running smallest to largest at the back (also front loops). Please sort comments by 'new' to find questions that would otherwise be buried. As above, in my rucksack. So far in my trad climbing career I have been using a typical setup with 10+ Alpine quickdraws each consisting of of 2 biners… I rarely use 12cm draws for trad outside of 'trad protected highballs'. It is nice to have a fatter sling for 2-screw anchors (usually a nylon-dyneema blend so it's not too fat) because it's easier to untie when you are moving on from a multipitch belay. I’ve got a bunch of short draws for sport climbing but I’m getting into mountaineering and trad climbing, and it seems like wiregates are in use more for this stuff. Trad Climbing Gear > Slings This 'Climbing Slings' article is part of the book - Trad Climbing Basics. I find this makes it super simple to extend (and by the right amount) even with just a single free hand. This gets you a "minimal single rack". I have been climbing for several years and am really starting to get into sport climbing. I climb mostly in Utah in rock canyon and Ibex with the occasional moab trip. BD: big cams. I have done many normal anchors, some anchors to threes, but never before with trad gear. Hi, new to reddit so dont even know if this is likely to get an answer but worth a shot. I climb with my shoulder lengths over one shoulder each with their own biner. As far as brands go, I absolutely recommend the mammut dyneema slings. ) In Korea where sport climbing is plentiful so stocking up on my first serious gear buy. 5m is standard when you expect no more than 2 pieces, but 8m is more useful for trad anchors where you might have 3 or more pieces. This is typically what I bring on most multi pitch climbs and how I’d rack it to maximize space for pro + draws, the extra carabiners shown (not attached) are situationally Slings would be nice for a bomber tree, bolt anchors, or other close together set ups and you will undoubtedly have them already The rope should be fine unless you are climbing the full length of the rope and don't have an extra length to make the anchor. WC: Off-fingers to fist size. Basically, you want all flop, no tension when the rope goes through. I am looking into getting a full rack of quickdraws and can't decide between the Petzl Anges, Djinn, or Express. So while climbing my stuff is well organized and easy to deal with What do you do when you take off all your slings, how do you store them/keep them organized and untangled? It's just a nuisance to carry alpine draws and quickdraws on a rack when alpine draws serve the same purpose as quickdraws in trad climbing BUT you could use the extendable slings in alpine draws for preventing rope drag or even for self rescue situations. com Apr 10, 2020 · I guess it depends on your definition of trad climbing really. Remember, on more challenging pitches, expect to use more gear. If I comment, it's usually "Except for the Quad, self-equalizing is BS. 6 pre made "stubby" quickdraws draws, 4 shoulder length slings, 2 double shoulder length slings, 25' of 7-8mm accessory cord. Im getting more into trad climbing where obviously alpine draws are pretty much your go to for clipping your rope to cams, nuts etc. for cams, draws, and anything else) after 7-10 years maximum, regardless of wear and tear (and of course earlier if damaged). Any suggestions on what a good “starter pack” would look like as far different cam/nut sizes? and then I can experiment and add to it based on need from there. I also love 120cm alpine draws which I rack at 1/5th length so they extend as easily as a 60cm alpine, however they aren't very common. 4-3) last week bc of an REI 20% coupon. - Looking left or right - Down-climbing - Keep climbing a bit further (ask your partner on rope length left) Until you find a safe anchor spot. After about 1 year . Enough carabiners for all of that (except the cord) to have 2 per sling/draw.