Autoblock vs prusik. Feb 3, 2017 · Similar knots are the Autoblock aka French Prusik and the Klemheist Inevitably there is some debate about their relative merits but both are defintely a bit easier to tie than the prusik. In this video we show how to tie a French prusik. Suffice it to say it's worth learning this gem of a knot. Diese peinliche Sorgfalt ist beim FB-Kreuzklemmknoten nicht erforderlich. They release under load, the others don't. On today’s Knot of the Week I’ll be covering the Bachmann Knot, a relative of the Prusik Knot that can be utilized as an autoblock or friction hitch. Jun 6, 2016 · In reply to MttSnr: French Prusik / Autoblock, same thing. Make 4 wraps around main static rope with a hand tied or sewn prusik. Cons: Requires more wraps for similar grip, less efficient than the VT 6/1. (The other two are the prusik and the autoblock, aka French prusik, or Machard. When rappelling and using an autoblock consisting of a french prusik knot it seems there may be some options on how and where to attach the autoblock to my harness. They can slide freely up or do Jun 22, 2012 · Ideal as a back-up while on long rappels, we constructed our AutoBlock from a durable 6 mm cord sewn into a 13. When the prusik is below the device there is a risk that it will hit the device and release. Apr 29, 2023 · The two most popular friction hitches in climbing are the autoblock and the prusik. To learn more about knots, watch our videos on How to Tie a Prusik Knot • Rock Climbing: How to Tie a Prusik Knot How to Tie a Klemheist Knot May 15, 2025 · The Autoblock knot, also called French Prusik knot, is a friction hitch used as a backup when rappelling. The biggest reason I prefer it to the prussic is the fact that its not a multidirection friction hitch, it's easier Oct 14, 2021 · I found this video while trying to figure out what type of rope I should use for my prusik/autoblock knot. This is rated to 22KN, so unlike a 5mm cord, you can use it as a sling in a pinch. president, Andrew Walter, compares the Kong Duck mechanical ascender with Sterling's TVAC Prusik for use with both lineman lines and saddle hu Der Prusikknoten muss sauber gelegt sein, um seine optimale Wirkung zu erzielen. Redesigned with a stronger aramid fiber, the Sterling 6. There are numerous variations on the prusik such as the "autoblock", but follow these steps to VT Prusik as Autoblock on Double Rope Rappel? I like the idea of using a VT Prusik as an autoblock above the belay device, but I haven't seen discussion as to whether this can be done on a double rope? Would a person need to run two separate VT's (one on each rope) or can you rely on a single VT grabbing the two ropes equally? Wild Edge Inc. What was the debate? They both work. The French prusik, or autoblock, is another in the family of slide-and-grip knots that includes the standard Prusik knot and the Klemheist. The materials on the VT Prusik are more heavy duty, but for all intents and purposes, the 18” loop from bluewater works just as well. Or it may be referred to as a “third hand Apr 11, 2014 · One method for using a prusik hitch as an autoblock or backup for a rappel. It slides when unweighted but locks under load, making it a reliable knot. Karl Prusik, who developed the knot in the 1930s. While I might use a "prusik cord" to tie a friction knot, the knot specifically called a "Prusik" would likely be my last choice to ascend a rope. This setup allows you to release the knot while it’s still loaded. Another variation is the autoblock or French Prusik, used by some people as a backup knot while rappelling. Emergency Rappel Device Backup Autoblock: An emergency rappel device backup autoblock is a mechanical device designed to provide a quick and reliable backup system during an emergency rappel. 34kN *Auto Block 3 wraps - slips at 1. Holding power and ease of release can be adjusted by changing the number of wraps. See that it grabs even after loosened for rappeling. They are both safe to use. Apr 14, 2023 · You can rig a friction hitch, such as a prusik knot or autoblock, below your rappel device and attach it to your belay loop with a locking carabiner. THE AUTOBLOCK KNOT is a quick and easy-to-tie friction hitch commonly used to back up rappels. Bachmann Knot May 15, 2023 · GM CLIMBING 6. The autoblock knot (also known as the Machard knot or French prusik knot, but that confuses it with the klemheist knot) slips more easily when accidentally touched even when loaded, and is intended to add more friction to a descender, not to be trusted for prusiking. The word “prusik” can be a verb as well as a noun. An autobloc can be released under tension, a prusik can't. Cross the lines in front and then again in back of static line for a total of 6 wraps. Jun 21, 2024 · The Autoblock knot is also known as the French Prusik knot. Prusik) for ascending rope, or other primary attachment. 8 mm HollowBlock 2 loop is a friction hitch and autoblock that can be used as a prusik or Klemheist knot on ropes 7 mm or larger. A prusik above the belay device has to hold your entire weight. This hitch has high friction, so it doesn’t slip or jam when appropriately set. Oct 14, 2020 · Prusik is overkill for under-the-ATC ropegrab. Lastly, three wraps on a prusik (aka the “improved prusik”) is best practice on thinner ropes, or if you’re traversing an area on a single strand fixed line. Key Benefits • 100% Technora Construction Nov 11, 2023 · In this illustarted guide, we teach you how to tie a Klemheist Knot, tell you what situations it's good for, and compare it with other friction hitches. For example, if you were traversing using an old, fixed rope rigged horizontally, you could attach a prusik to it from your harness. Is it worth buying a sewn Prusik loop for an autoblock while rappelling or should I just get some extra accessory cord? Also, what would be the best size (mm) cord to use? Autoblock Knot How to tie the Autoblock Knot. Similarly, the term “autoblock” has come to mean a friction hitch tied below the rappel device that can stop the descent. The auto block and extended rappel are covered in depth at this tip. I review three of the more common options below in a long winded rant but threw in a few photos to keep you going. Moved PermanentlyThe document has moved here. Often it is referred to as a “French Prusik,” which can also be used to describe an entirely different hitch. The autoblock is a particularly popular rappel backup because it is very quick to set up. ) This was really good information for me so I thought I'd share. 8mm x 13. It is tied with a VT Prusik. Apr 18, 2020 · Friction Hitches (prusik, autoblock, klemheist) Luke Holcomb 59 subscribers Subscribed I suspect you immediately think "Prusik". An autoblock (or autobloc or "third hand") is a rope device used in climbing and caving for both rappelling (downward) and ascending (upward). Klemheist bites best in one direction and gets undressed in the other direction, so it could make on-the-fly bridge adjustments a bit messy in one direction. It uses a carabiner to join the two ends of the loop. Most climbers now rappel with an autoblock hitch below the device, clipped to a leg Aug 11, 2017 · A prusik hitch is an invaluable tool when rock climbing, traveling across glaciers, climbing ropes, etc. Wrap the loop around the rope 3–5 times. 3. Dec 19, 2015 · A prusik works in either direction, which is sometimes important. May 12, 2021 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. Dump your 5mm cord and add one of these to your harness. If the rope were to break (either to the left or the right of you), the prusik would save you. Apr 11, 2021 · The main advantage is that having two clip loops means one can always be left attached (unlike a Prusik loop), allowing it to be quickly attached and removed without fear of dropping it, and so is perfect for tying an Autoblock, or asymmetric Prusik. This is most often used as a rappel backup, tied below the belay device or above extended with a sling. Cons: Weaker grip under high loads compared to the VT 6/1’s asymmetrical Jun 8, 2022 · Distel Hitch vs Prusik Climbers use the Distel hitch knot to ascend or descend a rope. There is a wide variety of them that can be deployed in various situations, each with their own functionalities, advantages and… Mar 14, 2023 · You don't need an autoblock at all. 2. Machard utilisait le nœud Cons: More complex to tie and adjust than the Prusik Knot. (I'm very new to saddle hunting. Dis AMGA Certified Rock Instructor Erik Kramer-Webb shows the prussik, kleimheist, and auto block hitches and the differences in how they grab and release. Sep 6, 2016 · Learn how to tie an Autoblock in this video. Which is a b A standard prusik performs best when it's loaded perpendicular to the main line. 5-inch loop. Essential climbing knots, hitches and bends. In this article, I’ll explain the differences between the autoblock vs. Standard Prusik Knot vs. Friction hitches are a special type of knot. Aug 23, 2019 · Ive always run a Prussic, because its "the norm" but the past few weeks I've been playing around with the Klemheist and I actually prefer it, in most situations. With one or two prusiks you can , or rig a up an injured climber, or . The Prusik Knot The good old prusik knot is very, very useful. I haven't been able to get it to slip under full load, which is promising, but I haven't actually fall tested it yet. A good hitch cord like the sterling 7mm or trc 6mm will be more than adequate for all 40' rappel. Klemheist Knots The Prusik knot and Klemheist knot are two friction hitch knots that essentially do the same job: to grip a rope in an autoblock system. I was curious if there was a "perfect" way to do it or if it was to the climber Oct 26, 2017 · The autoblock knot, an easy-to-tie friction knot or hitch that is tied around a climbing rope with a thin length of cord, is used as a safety back-up knot when you’re rappelling. There are Moved PermanentlyThe document has moved here. The autoblock is often made using either a factory-made or temporary loop which grips in either direction and can slide freely over the rope during a controlled descent. Sep 17, 2020 · I like the VT Prusik better, but they both function well for an autoblock imho. Sep 6, 2021 · Prusik vs. 74kN *Klemheist 3. About prusik/autoblock : below ATC, above ATC, ATC attached to a sling to your belaying loop Hi! I was curious to know how redditor are doing your rappel : I've learned to have a prusik knot above my ATC as this image but I've seen others technique to do it. All you need is a loop of cord which you can make using 6 or 7mm accessory cord and a double fisherman's knot. Can the Autoblock Knot be used in rescue? Yes, it’s effective for backup in high-angle rope rescue systems. ) Friction hitches are used typically used as a rope grab in a mechanical advantage haul system, and as a tool for emergency rope ascending. Both knots excel at simplicity in design and ease of tying but have some drawbacks compared to more elaborate friction hitches. Autoblock vs. The Prusik knot is a friction hitch that allows a cord to grip a rope. Cons: Less reliable for heavy loads or climbing compared to the Prusik Knot. With one or two prusiks you can ascend a rope, or rig a z-pulley to haul up an injured climber, or backup an abseil (“abseil” is aka “rappel”). We did a bunch of tests and here are the numbers: 4MM PARACORD: *Prusik 3. Uses Valdotain Tresse (VT) Prusik Purcell Prusik Introduction to Prusik Knots Prusik knots are named after Austrian mountaineer Dr. I have heard of people using Prussik many times more often than Distel Hitch. The Prusik knot and Klemheist knot for a rappel backup are both great choices, but there are some key differences to consider. The Autoblock Knot (French Prusik Knot, or Machard Tresse Knot) employs a carabiner to join the two ends of the loop. This post explains what a prusik knot is, prusik uses, how to tie prusik loop knots, material guides & more. 90kN This video is part of Midwest Mountain Guides rock climbing informational series. The AutoBlock attaches from the harness to the brake-hand end of the rappel rope just below the rappel device and works as a prusik or Klemheist knot. Again, make sure to practice on a short drop with ample time to explore. It's gripping ability comes from the unique hollow-braid construction, for use as a prusik or Klemheist knot on ropes 7 mm or larger. The Valdotain Tresse is a popular slide & grip knot used for ascending or as an autoblock. Prusik Knot Pros: Creates a secure, load-bearing loop in the middle of a rope. It grips under load and releases even when loaded. [1][2] Our bestselling friction hitch and autoblock has been redesigned with a stronger aramid fiber. 5 meters of 6mm cord). Autoblock Knot vs. Cependant, après sa mort tragique dans un accident d'escalade en 1963, le club alpin local a baptisé le nouvel attelage à friction "nœud de Machard", ou "nœud de prusik" français. So, to be clear, by "friction knot" I mean: French Prusik (autoblock), Bachman Knot, Heddon Knot, Klemheist knot, FB-sling friction knot, Prusik knot, etc. Dec 31, 2024 · This article aims to compare the reliability of emergency rappel device backup autoblock and prusik knot in emergency situations. Is there a correct placement Knots, hitches and prusiks are foundational to mountaineering skills. The 6. I do French because I'm lazy. On the other hand, the Prusik knot is commonly used as a friction hitch for ziplining, mountaineering, climbing, etc. ) I use the klemheist a lot, to me the autoblock adds more fussiness than I prefer. Jun 27, 2019 · AMGA Certified Rock guide Elaina Arenz shares how to tie and when to use Autoblock, Kelmhiest, and Prusik friction hitches. The top 3 easy friction hitches, easy to learn, good to know and extremely handy. Built from Sterling’s RIT 900 cord, the Hollow Block 6. All you need is a loop of cord which you can make using 6 or 7mm accessory cord and a knot. AMGA Instructor Team Member Patrick Ormond explains how to tie the auto-block, prusik and Klemheist friction hitches. Experiment and find a hitch you like that breaks under load (not a prusik! ) and that'll do just fine for hunting and time to rappel. Additionally most people use an autoblock below the device which isn't as grippy a knot as a prusik or klemheist so if you make a serious mistake (like not clipping both strands) it's less likely to hold your weight. These hitches are a simple and cheap alternative to mechanical ascenders. Alpine Butterfly vs. Dec 10, 2013 · Push the top strands of the autoblock hitch down, away from your rappel device, which releases the stop and allows you to continue rappelling. 8 mm HollowBlock2 is made of 100% Technora® fiber for increased abrasion resistance and improved durability. Other names Autoblock knot, French Prusik knot Tying 1. Mar 27, 2022 · Lose that leg prusik! Did you learn in Climbing 101 to always carry a leg and a waist prusik loop so you can ascend a rope in a self rescue situation? Truth is, these are rarely needed, especially in rock climbing. VT 6/1 Prusik Pros: Easier to release and simpler for rappelling backup. A better approach is to be more creative with multi-use gear you're already carrying. Feb 26, 2025 · While both the Autoblock and Prusik knot systems are reliable emergency rappel backups, the Prusik knot has a slightly higher failure rate compared to the Autoblock system. g. If you’re double strand rappelling, two wraps is an adequate backup and will make your actual rappell more smooth, less choppy. That's the main reason for using an autobloc for abseil back up. May 8, 2018 · Autoblock Knot The autoblock knot, also called a French Prusik knot, is an easy-to-tie and versatile friction knot that is used as a safety back-up knot on a rappel rope. Aug 23, 2023 · In this illustrated guide, we teach you how to tie a Prusik Knot, explain what situations it's best used in, and cover its advantages and disadvantages. The knot consists of one or more loops of cord tied around the climbing rope, creating a secure grip. An autoblock below the rap device only has to lightly hold the rope as it works by holding the rap device in the locked position. Farrimond Friction Hitch vs. Sound complicated? The technique takes many words to explain, but it is straightforward in practice. Clip both ends into a locking carabiner. The trace eight, prusik, clove hitch, ring bend, double fisherman's, girth hitch, and. MMG will demonstrate how to tie a Prusik, Klemheist and Autoblock. Why choose the Autoblock Knot over a Klemheist Hitch? – Since the autoblock cord is under friction regularly check it for wear and tear. Hay una gran variedad de ellos, según lo que necesitemos, pero los más populares son el Machard y el Prusik. Join the eyes in front and clip together with a Aug 17, 2019 · At that time, the guides were using HollowBlocks as a multipurpose tool: mainly as a "third hand" (aka autoblock rappel safety / backup) but also (hypothetically) as a friction hitch (e. To make the auto block, use a webbing loop designed for this such the Sterling Hollow Block, or second choice, a short prusik loop (start with 1. Learn all about Prusik Knots from Rock-N-Rescue. Apr 29, 2023 · Origine de l'Autoblock Le Français grimpeur Serge Machard (1) a inventé le nœud autobloquant en 1961. (If you know this knot, you probably know it's used in rappelling as a May 15, 2025 · Other Slide and Grip Knots Autoblock Knot The Autoblock Knot (also known as the French Prusik Knot) is tied like the Klemheist knot. However, there are a range of options when it comes to prusik material and of course each has its strengths and weaknesses. This can be valuable in a rescue if it is necessary to release the knot while still loaded. In the event you lose control of your rappel strands, the hitch will grip the rope and stop you from rappelling further, so long as your rappel device is extended and the hitch is tied correctly. À l'époque, Machard appelait sa nouvelle invention le "nœud spiralé". Prusik Which Knot Should You Use? (2023 Guide) Paracord Vs Prusik Learn how to tie four types of prusik knots (friction hitches) for climbing and rescue situations. The knot is the best back-up simply because it does two jobs exceedingly well: It locks under load and, unlike all other friction knots, it releases while still under load. Feb 15, 2023 · Discover the difference between Autoblock and Prusik knots for climbing. A Purcell Prusik is a related cord popular among cavers and rope-rescue people. Oct 7, 2019 · Klemheist should work fine, but the reason a prusik is used more often is because it’s omnidirectional, Autoblock is also omnidirectional, whereas the Klemheist is more unidirectional. A friction hitch is a kind of knot used to attach one rope to another in a way that is easily adjusted. (If you know this knot, you probably know it's used in rappelling as a backup. Se utilizan como bloqueamore Aug 17, 2019 · Meaning, a person could use a prusik or french prusik hitch for their autoblock? If that is the case in my testing the Hollowblock did not grab the Oplux at all using a french prusik no matter how many or few wraps I used. Made with aramid fiber and sewn with Sterling’s proprietary sewing pattern, this ultra-strong cord is designed to provide excellent griping power on climbing ropes with diameters of 7mm or larger. 5in is designed to function as a pre-sewn prusik or climb heist. It tends to slip while ascending, but is used as a backup when abseiling. You can also use auto-block knots for fixed-line ascents and emergency operations, tying the cord around the rope and securing it to your harness with a carabiner To tie these knots you can use 6 or 7 mm Like others have said the autoblock/prusik should go below the rappel device to act as a third “hand” and not actually take all the weight, your rappel device still does the majority of the heavy lifting. 32kn *Paracord doubled twice 8. After the fourth wrap, bring the tails down even with each other. Seven essential climbing knots to learn first: In this article, i’ll explain the differences between the autoblock vs. 09-22-2010, 09:50 slvravn Quote: Originally Posted by jackyb88. The AutoBlock attaches from the harness to the brake-hand end of the rappel rope just below the rappel device and works as a prusik or with a Klemheist knot. The prusik loop or prusik rappel backup is a standard, yet you might Nov 17, 2015 · The Distel Hitch and Prussik both appear to be slide and grip knots, used for ascending a climbing rope. Create a loop by tying both ends of a cord together with a double fisherman’s knot. Webbing does not work well with a prusik, so if you’d like to use webbing, you should use either the autoblock or the kleimheist instead. Prusik Knot Pros: Excellent for adjustable tensioning, particularly on taut lines. Additionally, unlike the omni-directional Prusik Knot, the Bachmann is uni-directional, meaning it can only be loaded from one direction and When belaying a second, using a prusik or autoblock on the brake strand is a quick, valid way to back up the system when lowering. The main difference between the French prusik and the other ones is that the French prusik can be moved while weighted. Learn about their features, pros and cons, and the best situations to use each one. prusik and discuss how each can make your climbing safer and more efficient. Jun 2, 2024 · The autoblock functions as your “third hand” rappel backup, and let you go hands-free on the rappel at any time. Use up most of the cord during your wraps to create friction. Nylon Accessory Cord: Various lengths and diameters We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. Oct 23, 2023 · There are many friction hitches, but prusik knot and Autoblock are probably most commonly used. 8mm Endless Prusik Loop, 15" length, 25kN /5600Lbs, made of 100% Technora for increased durability and performance, 16-strands hollow braid offering power grip to main ropes, used to tie friction hitches, including prusik knot, autoblock, Klemheist knot in mountaineering, climbing, canyoneering, caving, rope rescue, tree care by Friction Knots The Prusik Knot The good old prusik knot is very, very useful. A somewhat longer loop than the normal Prusik is used around the rope, then a second Prusik is used around the cord loop itself to form a foot loop. An autoblock is a variation of the klemheist that will also slide when lightly loaded. How does the Autoblock Knot compare to the Prusik Knot? The Autoblock is easier to release, while the Prusik grips stronger on static ropes. May 25, 2022 · The Prusik and French Machard are two types of auto-block knots that grip the rope when strong tension is applied: this allows you to safely rappel down on double ropes, preventing rope burns. When rappelling, why would you put a prusik/autoblock below the rappel device instead of above it? On a canyoneering trip this weekend with a buddy who is a proficient climber, he insisted the best way to use an autoblock is below the rappel device on the brake strand, with the autoblock clipped to a leg loop. The biggest differences between the Bachman and the Prusik Knot lies in its usage of a carabiner. Here, the backup knot is tied below the brake hand rather than above it. Test your backup before you trust your life on it. Mar 25, 2025 · The short one is always on my harness as my autoblock/prusik. Friction hitches The diameter and type of cord used to make a friction hitch must be selected according to the rope it will be used on. The autoblock locks in both directions, but the double fisherman's knot tends to wrap itself into the prusik when the direction is switched, making it much less effective. VT 6/1 Prusik Pros: Simpler to tie and widely used for general climbing. Then, use a locking carabiner from your harness leg loop, clip both ends, and lock the carabiner. Highly recommend this video as a resource for rappel extension as extending the rappel makes everything soooo much easier. Feb 2, 2019 · A better rappel backup method is to use an autoblock knot with an extended rappel. May 1, 2020 · The term Prusik knot or Autoblock is often used to generalise a number of different friction hitches that we use regularly in climbing. Looking into backups, really like the potential versatility of the Prusik for ascending and being able to have it above the belay device as well, but I've only actually seen the autoblock in person. For more 6mm Auto BlockIdeal as a back-up while on long rappels, we constructed our AutoBlock from a durable 6 mm cord sewn into a 13. Jul 20, 2024 · The Klemheist is one of three friction hitches every climber ought to know. Autoblock An autoblock using a Prusik knot on the left and an autoblock using the Machard knot ("autoblock knot") on the right. I did not test a standard prusik hitch as I wasn't sure you should use that hitch as an autoblock. I had to construct a trad anchor with limited gear and used this to basket a chock for a bomber first piece. The knot is tied on the rope below the rappel device and then attached to the climber’s harness through a carabiner on a leg loop or the belay loop. The two most popular friction hitches in climbing are the autoblock and the prusik. 34kN, 4 wraps - slips at 5. A fully locked prusik above the belay device can be extremely difficult to release. 1 day ago · The Prusik Knot (ABoK #1763) is a friction hitch used for climbing and rappelling. ) A klemheist is intended to be loaded in parallel with the main line, will grip when loaded, and can slide when unloaded. If the brake hand comes off, the autoblock immediately grabs the rope and stops the climber. Feb 22, 2020 · One final note on the prusik: We only recommend using cord - not - webbing when making this friction hitch. These knots are commonly used in climbing as part of single-rope technique, doubled-rope technique and as "ratchets" to capture progress on a moving rope, most typically in a mechanical advantage system such as a Z-drag. Quick Tying Guide: Autoblock Knot To tie an autoblock knot, wrap the hitch cord around the rappel ropes four to five times. (In this case, your ridgeline. Check all friction hitches before trusting them. Feb 26, 2018 · The nomenclature for rope grab hitches can be confusing. For tethering you sometimes see a friction hitch above the rappel device / munter.

Autoblock vs prusik. Learn all about Prusik Knots from Rock-N-Rescue.